B = Breakfast, L = Lunch, D = Dinner, MC = Mastercard, V = Visa. AE = American Express, DC = Discover Card, Prices range from low (€) to very expensive (€€€€€)
ALCAZAR - English restaurateur Terence Conran's big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Light fare at the bar upstairs. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€€ (Cards: all) 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Odeon
ALLARD - A historic bistro with a menu of French classics: escargots, sale meuniere, duck with olives, braised beef, hot apple tart. Mon-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 41 rue St- Andre-des-Arts (6th), 01.43.26.48.23. Mont St-Michel
ARBUCI (L') - A brasserie serving oysters, seafood platters and a selection of grilled meats. Dance music downstairs with a live DJ, Thu-Sat midnight-5 am. Daily L&D €€ (Cards: all) 25 rue de Buci (6th), 01.44.32.16.00.
AZABU - (Japanese) A tiny, popular and very good restaurant specializing in teppanyaki, with dexterous chefs chopping, slicing and cooking at an open-grill counter, with a few small tables on the side. Tue-Sat L&D, Sun D only. €€ (Cards: all) 3 rue Andre-Mazet (6th), 01.46.33.72.05. Odeon
BASTIDE ODEON (LA) - An excellent restaurant serving Provençal and Mediterranean cuisine-goat cheese with artichokes and peppers, marinated sardines with hummus and fennel vinaigrette. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 7 rue Comeille (6th), 01.43.26.03.65. Odeon
BEllER(LE) - In the legendary hotel called L'Hotel, redone in neo-Baroque style by Jacques Garcia, a chic restaurant serving good food: foie gras terrine, sea bass with olive puree and sesame. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. St-Germain-des-Pres
BOUQUINISTES (LES) - A Guy Savoy bistro annex with a colorful contemporary decor and modem cuisine: shrimp tempura with ginger and candied lemon sherbet, fresh cod in seaweed crust. Always crowded, and service can be uneven. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. €€ (Cards: all) 53 quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.25.45.94. St-Michel
BRASSERIE lIPP - A Paris institution once frequented by Picasso and Hemingway, coasting on its reputation despite merely passable food. Upstairs is Siberia. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) 151 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.53.91. St-Germain-des-Pres
BRASSERIELUTETIA - Decorated by Slavic and Sonia Rykiel, a spacious brasserie serving classic cuisine: seafood platters, pork with sauerkraut, roast chicken with garlic and thyme. Daily L&D until 10:30 pm. €€ (Cards: all) Hotel Lutetia, 45 blvd Raspail (6th), 01.49.54.46.76. Sevres-Babylone
CLOSERIE DE lILAS (LA) - Hemingway's spirit may linger in this Montparnasse spot with its simple brasserie-bar and ritzier restaurant on the opposite side, but the service was probably better in his day. Daily L&D. €€ (brasserie), €€€ (restaurant). (Cards: all) 171 blvd Montpamasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Raspail
EMPORIO ARMANICAFFE - (Italian) Above the shop, a cool spot serving fine Italian cuisine made with top-quality Italian products: aged Parma ham, Tuscan pigeon, Calabrian swordfish. Mon-Sat L&D until 10 pm. €€€ (AE, DC, MC, V) 149 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.62.15. St-Germain-des-Pres
EPI DUPIN (L') - A popular bistro where a talented young chef serves interesting modern French cuisine and heavenly desserts-but it's been resting on its laurels a little lately. Reservations are essential. Mon-Fri L&D. € (AE, MC, V) 11 rue Dupin (6th), 01.42.22.64.56. Sevres-Babylone
GATTOPARDO - (Italian) A small upstairs restaurant whose interesting menu includes truffle-scented polenta with lentils, artichoke and arugula risotto with oregano and speck, and ricotta caramelized with Amaretto served with red-fruit coulis. Tue-Sat L&D €€ (MC, V) 29 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.46.33.75.92. Odeon
HELENE DARROZE - Young two-star chef Helene Darroze's southwestern French specialties are decidedly hit or miss, with prices the knockout punch. The young wait staff is friendly but occasionally out of its league. €€€ The casual ground-floor Salon d'Helene serves upscale tapas.€€. (AE, MC, V) 4 rue d'Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Sevres-Babylone
JACQUES CAGNA - In a wood-paneled 17th-century town- house, Michelin one-star chef Jacques Cagna produces dishes such as farm-fresh hen in black truffle sauce. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D.€€€€ (Cards: all) 14 rue des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.49.39. Odeon
MEDITERRANEE (LA) - A bright seafood restaurant with marvelous frescoes, facing the Odeon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwell attest. Daily L&D.€€ (AE, MC, V) 2 place de l'Odeon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. Odeon
MONTPARNASSE 1900 (LE) - A Belle Epoque restaurant with a decor classified as a historic monument, serving French seafood specialties and a roast meat of the day. Daily L&D €€ (Cards: all) 59 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Montpamasse-Bienvenue
PALANQUIN (LE) - (Vietnamese) Among the specialties in this small restaurant is Asian fondue, a cook-it-yourself dish with a spicy broth for dunking shrimp, beef, and calamari. Tue-Sat L&D, Mon D. € (MC, V) 12 rue Princesse (6th), 01.43.29.77.66. Mabillon
PERES ET FILLES - A new old-fashioned look for this neighborhood bistro serving simple but good Franco-Italian food: eggplant and goat cheese terrine, linguine with scampi, roast chicken with mashed potatoes. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V). 81 rue de Seine (6th), 01.43.25.00.28. Mabillon/Odeon
PETIT ZINC (LE) - A busy restaurant with an over-the-top 1900's style decor. Specialties include thick-sliced calf's liver, roast lamb, seafood platters, and fruit tarts. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, DC, MC, V). 11 rue St-Benoit (6th), 01.42.86.61.00. St-Germain-des-Pres
PROCOPE (LE) - The oldest cafe in France, opened in 1686 and always packed with tourists. Classic dishes include seafood platters and coq au vin. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) 13 rue de l'Ancienne Comedie (6th), 01.40.46.79.00. Odeon
RELAIS LOUIS XIII - In a wood-beamed medieval townhouse, two-star chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes such as crab with artichokes or milk-fed veal with tarragon. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat L&D, Mon D. €€€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. St-Michel
RESTAURANT DES BEAUX ARTS - A pleasant, popular neighborhood bistro serving old-fashioned French food: escargots, warm goat cheese salad, scallops with saffron and wild rice. Downstairs can get smoky. Wed-Sun L&D €€ (MC, V) 80 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.43.25.71.16. St-Michel
ZE KITCHEN GALERIE - (Fusion) Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil's chic contemporary restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish (tuna with green mango and basil), pasta starters (macaroni with shrimp, squid, and Thai basil) and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 4 rue des Grands- Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. St-Michel
Image: Empty seats at the Jardins du Luxembourg.
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