Saint Germain Restaurants (6TH)

ALCAZAR-English restaurateur Terence Conran's big, cool, noisy brasserie-bar, with contemporary French and fusion dishes such as scallops with grapefruit and green papaya. Light fare at the bar upstairs. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€€ (Cards: all) 62 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.53.10.19.99. Odeon

ALLARD-A historic bistro with a menu of French classics: escargots, sale meuniere, duck with olives, braised beef, hot apple tart. Man-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 41 rue St- Andre-des-Arts (6th), 01.43.26.48.23. Mont St-Michel E4 ARBUCI (L')-A brasserie serving oysters, seafood platters and a selection of grilled meats. Dance music downstairs with a live DJ, Thu-Sat midnight-5 am. Daily L&D €€ (Cards: all) 25 rue de Buci (6th), 01.44.32.16.00.
Mabillon

AZABU-(Japanese) A tiny, popular and very good restaurant specializing in teppanyaki, with dexterous chefs chopping, slicing and cooking at an open-grill counter, with a few small tables on the side. Tue-Sat L&D, Sun D only. €€ (Cards: all) 3 rue Andre-Mazet (6th), 01.46.33.72.05. Odeon

BASTIDE ODEON (LA)-An excellent restaurant serving Proven.;:al and Mediterranean cuisine-goat cheese with artichokes and peppers, marinated sardines with hummus and fennel vinaigrette. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 7 rue Comeille (6th), 01.43.26.03.65. Odeon

BEllER(LE)-In the legendary hotel called L'Hotel, redone in neo-Baroque style by Jacques Garcia, a chic restaurant serving good food: foie gras terrine, sea bass with olive puree and sesame. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 13 rue des Beaux-Arts (6th), 01.44.41.99.00. St-Germain-des-Pres

BOUQUINISTES (LES)-A Guy Savoy bistro annex with a colorful contemporary decor and modem cuisine: shrimp tempura with ginger and candied lemon sherbet, fresh cod in seaweed crust. Always crowded, and ser- vice can be uneven. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. €€ (Cards: all) 53 quai des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.25.45.94. St-Michel

BRASSERIE lIPP-A Paris institution once frequented by Picasso and Hemingway, coasting on its reputation despite merely passable food. Upstairs is Siberia. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) 151 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.53.91. St-Germain-des-Pres

BRASSERIELUTETIA-Decorated by Slavic and Sonia Rykiel, a spacious brasserie serving classic cuisine: seafood platters, pork with sauerkraut, roast chicken with garlic and thyme. Daily L&D until 10:30 pm. €€ (Cards: all) Hotel Lutetia, 45 blvd Raspail (6th), 01.49.54.46.76. Sevres-Babylone

CLOSERIE DE lILAS (LA)-Hemingway'sspirit may linger in this Montparnasse spot with its simple brasserie-bar and ritzier restaurant on the opposite side, but the ser- vice was probably better in his day., Daily L&D. €€ (brasserie), €€€ (restaurant). (Cards: all) 171 blvd Montpamasse (6th), 01.40.51.34.50. Raspail

EMPORIO ARMANICAFFE-(Italian) Above the shop, a cool spot serving fine Italian cuisine made with top-quality Italian products: aged Parma ham, Tuscan pigeon, Calabrian swordfish. Man-Sat L&D until 10 pm. €€€ (AE, DC, MC, V) 149 blvd St-Germain (6th), 01.45.48.62.15. St-Germain-des-Pres

EPI DUPIN (L')-A popular bistro where a talented young chef serves interesting modern French cuisine and heavenly desserts-but it's been resting on its laurels a little lately. Reservations are essential, and try to avoid the back table near the We. Mon-Fri L&D. € (AE, MC, V) 11 rue Dupin (6th), 01.42.22.64.56. Sevres-Babylone

GATTOPARDO-(Italian) A small upstairs restaurant whose interesting menu includes truffle-scented polenta with lentils, artichoke and arugula risotto with oregano and speck, and ricotta caramelized with Amaretto served with red-fruit coulis. Tue-Sat L&D €€ (MC, V) 29 rue Dauphine (6th), 01.46.33.75.92. Odeon

HELENE DARROZE- Young two-star chef HeleneDarroze's southwestern French specialties are decidedly hit or miss, with prices the knockout punch. The young wait staff is friendly but occasionally out of its league. €€€ The casual ground-floor Salon d'Helene serves upscale tapas.€€. (AE, MC, V) 4 rue d'Assas (6th), 01.42.22.00.11. Sevres-Babylone

JACQUES CAGNA-In a wood-paneled 17th-century town- house, Michelin one-star chef Jacques Cagna produces dishes such as farm-fresh hen in black truffle sauce. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D.€€€€ (Cards: all) 14 rue des Grands Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.49.39. Odeon

MEDITERRANEE (LA)-A bright seafood restaurant with marvelous frescoes, facing the Odeon theater. It once welcomed the likes of Liz Taylor and Orson Welles, as the discreet photos on the stairwellattest. Daily L&D.€€(AE, MC, V) 2 pi de l'Odeon (6th), 01.43.26.02.30. Odeon

MONTPARNASSE 1900 (LE)-A Belle Epoque restaurant with a decor classified as a historic monument, serving French seafood specialties and a roast meatof the day. Daily L&D€€ (Cards: all) 59 blvd du Montparnasse (6th), 01.45.49.19.00. Montpamasse-Bienvenue

PALANQUIN (LE)-(Vietnamese) Among the specialties in this small restaurant is Asian fondue, a cook-it-yourself dish with a spicy broth for dunking shrimp, beef, and calamari. Tue-SatL&D, Man D. € (MC, V) 12 rue Princesse (6th), 01.43.29.77.66. Mabillon

PERES ET FILLES-A new old-fashioned look for this neigh- borhood bistro serving simple but good Franco-Italian food: eggplant and goat cheese terrine, linguine with scampi, roast chicken with mashed potatoes.Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V). 81 rue de Seine (6th), 01.43.25.00.28. Mabillon/Odeon

PETIT ZINC (LE)-A busy restaurant with an over-the-top 1900-style decor. Specialties include thick-sliced calf's liver, roast Iamb, seafood platters, and fruit tarts.Daily L&D. €€ (AE, DC, MC, V). 11 rue St-Benoit (6th), 01.42.86.61.00. St-Germain-des-Pres

PROCOPE (LE)-The oldest cafe in France, opened in 1686 and always packed with tourists. Classic dishes include seafood platters and coq au vin. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) 13 rue de l'Ancienne Comedie (6th), 01.40.46.79.00. Odeon

RELAIS LOUIS XIII-In a wood-beamedmedieval town- house, two-star chef Manuel Martinez serves delicious dishes such as crab with artichokes or milk-fed veal with tarragon. Fine wine list. Tue-Sat L&D, Man D. €€€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 8 rue des Grands-Augustins (6th), 01.43.26.75.96. St-Michel

RESTAURANT DES BEAUX.ARTS-A pleasant, popular neighborhood bistro serving old-fashioned French food: escargots, warm goat cheese salad, scallops with saffron and wild rice. Downstairs can get smoky. Wed-SunL&D €€ (MC, V) 80 rue Mazarine (6th), 01.43.25.71.16. St-Michel

ZE KITCHEN GALERIE-(Fusion) Ze silly name aside, chef William Ledeuil's chic contemporary restaurant offers excellent soups, marinated fish (tuna with green mango and basil), pasta starters (macaroni with shrimp, squid, and Thai basil) and main courses a la plancha. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 4 rue des Grands- Augustins (6th), 01.44.32.00.32. St-Michel