Marais Restaurants (3RD, 4TH)

B = Breakfast, L = Lunch, D = Dinner, MC = Mastercard, V = Visa. AE = American Express, DC = Discover Card, Prices range from low (€) to very expensive (€€€€€)

AMBASSADE D'AUVERGNE (L ') - A rustic setting and hearty cuisine from the Auvergne region: lentil salad, pork stew with cabbage and carrots. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 22 rue Grenier St-Lazare (3rd), 01.42.72.31.22. Paris Metro Symbol Rambuteau

AMBROISIE (L') - In a beautiful 17th-century mansion on the Place des Vosges, media shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lotister ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuif/antine with sesame and curry. Fabulous foie gras. Avoid the tiny back room. Tue-Sat L&D. €€€€€ (AE, MC, V) 9 pi des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Paris Metro Symbol Shaul

AMI LOUIS (L') - A classic 1920's bistro known for its huge portions of foie gras and roast chicken and its exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists Book weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. €€€€ (AE, DC, MC, V) 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. Paris Metro Symbol Arts et Metiers

BASCOU (AU) - A cheerful bistro with a jovial proprietor and good Basque cuisine: red peppers stuffed with codfish puree, piperade (pepper and onion omelet), axoa (veal stew with tiacon and pimentos). Try the red lrouleguy wine. Mon-Fri L&D, €€ (AE, MC, V) 38 rue Reaumur (3rd), 01.42.72.69.25. Paris Metro Symbol Arts et Metiers

BENOIT - A classic 1912 bistro with 21st-century prices, and a favorite of affluent tourists for its traditional French cuisine: cassoulet, beef in Beaujolais, iced souffle with Grand Marnier. Try to avoid the back room. Daily L&D. €€€€ (AE only) 20 rue St-Martin (4th), 01.42.72.25.76. Paris Metro Symbol Chatelet

BOFINGER - A landmark brasseire with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. Paris Metro Symbol Bastille

CHEZ OMAR - (North African) A lively fashion-world restaurant serving classic Algerian food: couscous, grilled meats and spicy sausages. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat & Mon D only.€€ (AE, MC, V) 47 rue de Bretagne (3rd), 01.42.72.36.26. Paris Metro Symbol Setiastien-Frolssart

GEORGES - Trendy restaurant atop the Pompidou Center, with standard world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Mon L&D until 2 am. €€€ (Cards: all) Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Paris Metro Symbol Ramtiuteau

MON VIEIL AMI - A small restaurant run by Antoine Westermann, chef of the three-star Buereheisel in Strasbourg. On the reasonably-priced menu: foie gras pate en croute, breast of veal en cocotte both crispy and confit. Wed-Sun L&D, Tue D only. €€ (Cards: all) 69 rue St-Louis-en-I'lie (4th), 01.40.46.01.35. Paris Metro Symbol Hotel de Ville/ Pont Marie

MURANO - Fashion restaurants are rarely about food, but the contemporary French cuisine In this sleek new hot spot is excellent. Lounge music, eye-candy service and a chic crowd, but it comes at a fairly high price. Daily L&D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all) Murano Urtian Resort, 13 blvd du Temple (3rd), 01.42.71.20.00. Paris Metro Symbol Filles du Calvaire

ORANGERIE (L') - A pretty, small restaurant run by actor Jean-Claude Brialy. The fixed-price €65 menu never changes-green bean salad with foie gras, rack of lamb, floating island. Tourists and foreigners may get short shrift. Daily D only until 12:30 am. €€€ (Cards: MC, V) 28 rue St-Louis-en-I'lie (4th), 01.46.33.93.98. Paris Metro Symbol Pont Marie

PETIT BOFINGER - One of several small annexes of the brasserie Bofinger, which serve simple French fare at moderate prices. Daily L&D to midnight. €€ (Cards: all) 6 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.05.23. Paris Metro Symbol Bastille

VIEUX BISTROT (LE) - A classic, expensive bistro near Notre Dame serving solid French food: frogs' legs, beef bourguignon, tarte Tatin flamed with Calvados. Extensive, expensive wine list. Daily L&D. €€€ (MC, V) 14 rue du Cloitre-Notre-Dame (4th), 01.43.54.18. 95. Paris Metro SymbolCite

YACHTS DE PARIS - A three-hour dinner cruise on the Seine aboard the yacht Excellence. One-star chef Gerard Besson oversees the classic cuisine. Nightly departure at 8:30 pm, reservations required. €€€€€ (AE, MC, V) Henri IV, facing 10 bis quai Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. Paris Metro Symbol Sully-Morland

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