Louvre and les Halles Restaurants (1ST, 2ND)

€: €30 or less €€: €31-50 €€€: €50-100
= nearest metro station

ARDOISE (L')-A pocket-sized bistro serving a set-price three course menu of modern French cuisine: scallop ravioli, filet of fresh cod with caramelized onions. Wed-Sun L&D. €€ (MC, V) 28 rue du Mont-Thabor (1st), 01.42.96.28.18. Concorde

ARGENTEUIL (L ')-An excellent restaurant with an ever changing menu that includes such inventive dishes as Brittany lobster in herb tabbouleh, and lasagna with leg of Iamb and eggplant. Wed-Thu L&D, Tue & Fri-Sun D only. €€ (AE, MC, V) 9 rue d'Argenteuil (1st), 01.42.60.56.22. Pyramides

BRASSERIE DU LOUVRE-A brasserie serving traditional French favorites: seafood platters, onion soup, sale meuniere, crepes Suzette. Daily until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) Hotel du Louvre, Place du Palais Royal (1st), 01.42.96.27.98. Palais Royal

CAFE MARL -In a wing of the Louvre, a trendy cafe-restaurant with a striking neo-Directoire decor, an inside view over a sculpture gallery, a great outdoor terrace and standard modern French food. Daily 8 am-2 am. €€ (Cards: all) 93 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.49.26.06.60. Palais Royal

CARRE DES FEUILLANTS - The Michelin two-star restaurant of chef Alain Dutournier, who adapts the cuisine of his native southwestern France in dishes such as tiny squid with sweet pepper piperade (a Basque omelet), or veal sweetbreads with oyster jus and eggplant stuffed macaroni. Excellent desserts. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. €€€€ (AE, DC, MC, V) 14 rue de Castiglione (1st), 01.42.86.82.82. Tuileries

CASTIGLIONE (LE)-A typical Parisian cafe-restaurant near Place Vendome with traditional French food, including foie gras. Service from breakfast through lunch, dinner and late night snacks. Large wine list. Daily 7 am-midnight. € (MC, V) 235 rue St-Honore (1st), 01.42.60.68.22. Tuileries

CELADON (LE)-A one-star restaurant with a beautiful Regency decor and modernized classic dishes like milk fed pork roast with truffled polenta. Mon-Fri, L&D €€€. Weekends, it becomes the informal Petit Celadon, with a set menu for children. €€ (Cards: all) 15 rue Daunou (2nd), 01.47.03.40.42. Opera

CHEZ GEORGES-A classic bistro with century old ambience, old-fashioned waitresses, and good (albeit pricey) classic favorites: leeks vinaigrette, beef filet bearnaise, salmon with sorrel sauce, apple tarte tatin. Man-Sat L&D €€€ (AE, MC, V) 1 rue du Mail (2nd), 01.42.60.07.11. Bourse

CORTILE (lL)-(ltalian) The fashion crowd loves this Michelin one-star restaurant overseen by chef Alain Ducasse, serving light dishes such as veal glazed with balsamic vinegar accompanied by crispy polenta and mushrooms. Mon-Fri L&D. €€€ (Cards: all) 37 rue Cambon (1st), 01.44.58.45.67. Tuileries

CRUS DE BOURGOGNE (AUX)-In a lively pedestrian quarter, an authentic 1900 bistro with an impressive list of Burgundy wines and a classic regional menu: loie gras, escargots, coq au vin. Mon-Fri L&D. €€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 3 rue Bachaumont (2nd), 01.42.33.48.24. Les Halles/Sentier

DJAKARTA BALI-(Indonesian) An excellent restaurant run by a charming, English speaking brother-and-sister team. Try lumpia (deep fried spring rolls), or ayam jahe (chicken caramelized in ginger). Tue-Sun D only. € (MC, V). 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.45.08.83.11. Louvre-Rivoli

DROUANT -The 122-year-old restaurant where France's top literary prize, the Prix Goncourt, is awarded each November. Classic French cuisine: lobster fricassee, chocolate and praline millefeuille. Mon-Fri L&D. €€€€. Place Gaillon (2nd), 01.42.65.15.16. Opera

ESPADON (L')-Elegant restaurant in the legendary Ritz hotel, where two-star chef Michel Roth offers such inventive dishes as pistachio-crusted crawfish tails with foamy lobster sauce; spit roasted wild duck with caramelized figs; and peaches with basil, nougat, and lemon ice. Daily L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) Hotel Ritz, 15 pi Vendome (1st), 01.43.16.30.80. Tuileries

GERARD BESSON -A long-standing Michelin one-star restaurant known for reliable, well-executed haute cuisine: foie gras with pistachio aspic, leg of Iamb in a rosemary infusion, fresh game in sea- son. Tue-Fri L&D, Mon & Sat D only. €€€€ (Cards: all) 5 rue Coq-Heron (1st), 01.42.33.14.74. Palais Royal

GRAND VEFOUR (LE)-An opulent three star restaurant in the Palais Royal that's been serving Paris' beau monde since the 1700s. Among chef Guy Martin's superb dishes: foie gras ravioli with truffle jus, rack of Iamb with coffee chocolate sauce and artichoke creme brulee. Mon-Thu L&D, Fri L only. €€€€€ (Cards: all) 17 rue de Beaujolais (1st), 01.42.96.56.27. Palais Royal

HOTEL COSTES- tres chic hotel restaurant with Napoleon III decor. The food's OK (ternpura, club sandwiches) but the star studded scene's the thing. Daily B, L, D, snacks. €€€ (Cards: all) 239 rue St-Honore (1st), 01.42.44.50.25. Tuileries

KONG- A spectacular glass roofed penthouse restaurant designed by Philippe Starck and inspired by Japanese manga comics. The food's not quite as much fun. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 1 rue du Pont-Neuf (1st), 01.40.39.09.00.
Pont-Neuf

LESCURE-A small, crowded restaurant with a rustic decor and bantering wait- ers whose good humor is contagious, espe,:ially if you're seated at the com- munal table d'hotes. Simple old-fashioned food-pates, beef bourguignon, chicken Basquaise, profiteroles. Smoky, no reservations, but angelic prices. Mon-Fri L&D until 10:30. 7 rue de Mandavi (1st), 01.42.60.18.91. €/U Concorde

LYONNAIS (AUX)-An old bistro with its original 1890 decor, co-owned by superchef Alain Ducasse, offering spilled up Lyon specialties: baked eggs with crawfish, roast chicken with mushrooms, tomatoes and onions in vinegar glaze. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat D only. €€ (MC, V) 32 rue St-Marc (2nd), 01.42.96.65.04. Richelieu-Drouot

MEURICE (LE)-A stunning 19th-century room laden with crystal, marble, and gilt. Chef Yannick Alieno has won a second Michelin star for such inventive modern dishes as scallops with balsamic vinaigrette and hazelnut bavarois. Daily B, L (except Sat), D. €€€€. The smaller Jardin d'Hiver offers a simpler menu under an Art Nou- veau glass roof. Daily B, L (except Sat), tea, D. €€ (Cards: all) Hotel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli (1st), 01.44.58.10.44. Tuileries

PARK (LE)- The sleek modern restaurant of the Park Hyatt Vendome hotel, with a glass walled kitchen and a chic menu: langoustines with tomato chutney, turtiot steak with spicy eggplant coulis. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D. €€€ (Cards: all) 3-5 rue de la Paix (2nd), 01.58.71.12.34. Opera

PIED DE COCHON (AU)-Huge seafood platters, onion soup, grilled Salers tieef in an authentic all-night tirasserie evocative of the good old days of the Les Halles food market. Daily 24 hrs. €€ (Cards: all) 6 rue Coquilliere (1st), 01.40.13.77.00 Chatelet Les Halles

PINXO-A tapas restaurant run by two-star chef Alain Dutournier (Carre des Feuillants) serving pricey tidbits - pinxo is "a pinch" in Basque: tuna ceviche with eggplant and piquifios, crati in a vegetable roll. Daily L&D. €€€ (AE, MC, V) Hotel Paris Plaza Vendome, 9 rue Alger (1st), 01.40.20.72.00. Tuileries

POULE AU POT (LA)-Founded in 1935, this small bistro in the old Les Hailes district is a haven for all-night owls, and specializes in its namesake chicken stew. Tue-Sun 7 pm-5 am. €€ (MC, V) 9 rue Vauvilliers (1st), 01.42.36.32.96. Chatelet Les Halles

RESTAURANT DU PALAIS ROY AL-A handsome restauant under the arcades of the Palals Royal, serving excellent modern dishes such as Tuscan salami with Parmesan fritters or tuna with zucchini fricassee. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. €€€ (Cards: all) 110 Galerie de Valois (1st), 01.40.20.00.27. Palais Royal

TOUR MONTLHERY (LA) "Chez Denise"-A blast from the past in the old Les Hailes district, serving classic French favorites: chicken liver pate, stuffed cabbiage, and more. Mon-Fri 24 hrs. €€ (MC, V) 5 rue des Prouvaires (1st), 01.42.36.21.82. Chatelet Les Halles

VIN & MAREE-One of five locations for this mini-chain of bistros specializing in reasonably priced seafood: salmon tartare, tuna carpaccio, scallops a la planeha, and desserts such as mango milefeuife. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 165 rue St-Honore (1s!), 01.42.86.06.96. Palais Royal