Bastille Restaurants (11TH, 12TH)

BLUE ELEPHANT-(Thai) Designed like a Thai village, with fountains, fresh orchids, and staff in traditional dress. Produce is flown in from Bangkok for such dishes as mango-shrimp salad or fish souffle with Thai basil. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat-Sun D, Sun buffet brunch noon-3 pm. €€ (Cards: all) 43-45 rue de la Roquette (11th), 01.47.00.42.00. Bastille

EUROPEEN (L ')-A modern brasserie with a Belle Epoque decor serving fresh oysters and classic dishes such as choucroute de mer (sauerkraut and fish) and beef tenderloin with bearnaise sauce. Daily 6 am-1 am. €€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 21 bis blvd Diderot (12th), 01.43.43.99.70. Gare de Lyon

GRANDES MARCHES (LES)-A brasserie next to the Bastille opera with a striking modern decor and a menu overseen by one-star chef Christian Constant, mixing modern and classic dishes: tuna carpaccio with wosabi, fresh cod with foie gras, roast veal with macaroni. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, MC, V) 6 pi de la Bastille (12th), 01.43.42.90.32. Bastille

MANSOURIA-(North Alrican) A modern Moroccan decor, a hip crowd, and a kitchen of female chefs preparing traditional specialties such as orange salad in orange-flower water or tajine of Iamb with almonds and prunes. Wed-Sat L&D, Mon-Tue D only. €€ (AE, MC, V) 11 rue Faidherbe (11th), 01.43.71.00.16. Faidherbe-Chaligny

MARSANGY (LE)-An appealing bistro that attracts a crowd of neighborhood regulars with good, reasonably-priced dishes like avocado-and-crawfish millefeuille or breast of guinea hen in tarragon cream. Excellent wine list. Mon- Fri L&D, Sat D only. €/€€ (MC, V) 73 ave Parmentier (11th), 01.47.00.94.25. Parmentier

MUSE VIN (LE)-A crowded wine bistro and wine shop splashed with neon colors and modern art, serving simple food from the best suppliers-cold cuts from Da Rosa, cheese from Bordier. Reservations essential. Mon- Sat L&D. €€ (MC, V) 101 rue de Charonne (11th), 01.40.09.93.05. Charonne

TEMPS AU TEMPS (LE)- The young chef at this small bistro whips up clever dishes including foie gras sauteed in red wine, scorpion fish with a lentil-and- mango puree, and raspberry-topped shortbread with caramel sauce. Mon-Sat L&D. €€ (MC, V) 13 rue Paul Bert (llth), 01.43.79.63.40. Faidherbe-Chaligny

TRAIN BLEU (LE)-A magnificent, mirrored Belle Epoque restaurant in the Gare de Lyon train station serving clas- sic French fare, including lobster salad with artichokes, sole meuniere and steak tartare. Daily L&D. €€€ (Cards: all) Gare de Lyon, Place Louis Armand (12th), 01.43.43.09.06. Gare de Lyon

TROU GASCON (AU)-A Belle Epoque restaurant run by two-star chef Alain Dutournier (of the Carre des Feuil- lants) and his wife Nicole, specializing in southwestern French cuisine: foie gras, milk-fed Pyrenees Iamb. Mon- Fri L&D, Sat D. €€€ (AE, MC, D, V) 40 rue Taine (12th), 01.43.44.34.26. Daumesnil

VIEUX CHENE (LE)-A neighborhood bistro with lots of Parisian atmosphere, a retro decor and really great food-delicious fresh cod steak with preserved lemons, or chicken with vinegar and shallots. €€ 7 rue Dahomey (11th), 01.43.71.67.69. Faidherbe-Chaligny