Opera & Pigalle Restaurants (9th, 10th)

16 HAUSSMANN-In the Hotel Ambassador, a Regency striped fantasy with Philippe Starck furnishings and good food, including dishes such as langoustine ravioli with basil mousse or chicken breast with foie gras. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. €€ (Cards: all) 16 blvd Haussmann (9th), 01.48.00.06.38. Richelieu-Drouot

ALSACO (L')-An authentic Alsatian winstub tavern, with traditional decor and such classic dishes as chaucraute (sauerkraut with pork, ham and sausages) and bocke-hoffe (pork, mutton and beef stew). Tue-Fri L&D, Mon & Sat D only. €€ (MC, V) 10 rue Condorcet (9th), 01.45.26.44.31. Poissonniere

BRASSERIE FLO-A bustling, noisy brasserie with a beautiful1880s decor and standard food, including big seafood platters and steak with French fries. Daily L&D until 1:30 am. €€ (Cards: all) 7 cour des Petites-Ecuries (10th), 01.47.70.13.59. Strasbourg-St-Denis

CAFE DE LA PAIX-With an opulent Second Empire decor, this famous old restaurant serves all day from breakfast to midnight supper. There's also a small cafe section for drinks and snacks. Daily B, L, tea, D until 12:30 am. €€ (AE, MC, V) 3 pi de l'Opera (9th), 01.40.07.36.36. Opera

CHARLOT -A classic Parisian Art Deco restaurant serving traditional cuisine: copious seafood platters, bouillabaisse, old-fashioned tarte Tatin. Daily L&D. €€€ (AE, DC, MC, V). 12 pi de Clichy (9th), 01.53.20.48.00. Place de Clichy

CHEZ JEAN-A 1950s decor and a chef whose creative bistro fare includes such dishes as roast milk-fed Iamb with spicy moussaka and polenta. Tue-Sat L&D. €€ (Cards: all) 8 rue St-Lazare (9th), 01.48.78.62.73. Notre-Dame-de-Lorette

CHEZ MICHEL-A small bistro in which chef Thierry Breton turns out terrific modern dishes, veal fricassee with leeks and mushrooms, white chocolate marquise with mint sherbet-along with classic cuisine from his native Brittany. Great value. Tue-Sat L&D. €/€€ (AE, MC, V) 10 rue de Belzunce (10th), 01.44.53.06.20. The smaller Chez Casimir next door serves simple, equally good food at even lower prices. Mon-Fri L&D, Sat D. 01.48.78.28.80. Gare du Nord

MUSES (LES)- The restaurant of the Hotel Scribe, where chef Jean-Francois Rouquette has just won a Michelin star for his inventive contemporary cuisine, including dishes such as sea urchin, crab and shellfish "cappuccino" and a foie gras "crumble" with lime vinaigrette and carrots with argan oil. Mon-Fri L&D. €€€€ (Cards: all) 1 rue Scribe (9th), 01.44.71.24.26. Opera

TAVERNE (LA)-Old-fashioned brasserie serving traditional French fare: onion tart, seafood platters, and choucroute, along with traditional Alsatian wines and regional beers. Live music evenings. Daily until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) 24 blvd des Italiens (9th), 01.55.33.10.00. Opera